I have a M6E Nano connected with a Serial Basic USB breakout board.
Connecting everything together and using the Universal Reader Assistant works, but when I start reading tags nothing shows and the board disconnects after a few seconds.
Because the board is not getting enough power it will brown out. Resetting the board.
Make sure the USB breakout board is supplying 5V of power instead of the default 3.3V.
On the back of the board is a 3 pad jumper that you need to sever and re-solder to 5V.
Related
I am a beginner to arduino and trying to follow one of the videos from youtube to make a project- Master And Slave using HC-05 modules. I followed every step from that video carefully. Here's the link to the video ->
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BXXAcFOTnBo
For Slave Module when I type AT commands in the serial monitor nothing shows up.
I searched in Internet for the this problem and still didn't fix it. Here's What i have done:
tired restarting my pc
tried Changing arduino, At first i used arduino nano and then uno
I tried changing the baud rate to all other values and nothing happened
And there is no change in light blink, it stays on AT command mode until power is turned off and on again.
This is how is looks
Thank You For the Answer
Your problem is not actually related to arduino in any way. This tutorial is utilizing onboard USB->UART transceiver IC. So in theory you could even remove Atmel chip from the board. Its more like using module like this FT232 converter. Anyways sorry if I confused you but you can research the subject.
But anyways to the problem. Couple of questions:
Did you press reset button on module while powerin up the circuit?
Thats the way it enters to AT command mode
Did you try to reverse RX-TX lines, don't worry connecting these guys across eatch other doesn't harm your board.
(They are so often plugged in wrong..)
Did you make sure you have connected EN pin of module also. (To arduino 3.3V not 5V)
Did you triple check all connections
Try to upload simple Sketch like blinky to Arduino to make sure you are connected to USB-UART transeiver and you have correct drivers.
Make sure you upload empty sketch or remove the chip when you try to apply tutorial steps.
Change jumper wires. Sometimes cheap jumper wires are really bad quality.
I have been sometimes scratching head for long time because of broken jumper cable.
Please let me know if you have checked all of those so we can think for next step.
I got some brand new banana Pi's,
these are the "Banana Pi-M2" and the "Banana Pi-M3"
I was trying to install Debian on both of them, but I couldn't get it to work.
I was exactly following this tutorial here (Windows):
http://wiki.lemaker.org/BananaPro/Pi:SD_card_installation
to save Debian on the SD Card.
The Problem is always the same. When pressing the power Button on the "M3", or plugging in the "M2", only the red LED goes on and nothing happens.
The LED for the LAN port stays off, so it comes close that the Pi is not booting up.
The power supply I am using produces 5V and 2100mA which should fit the conditions for the Banana Pi.
The distros I then tried to install were for example Bananian which I got from here:
https://www.bananian.org/download
And several distros like Debian from here:
http://www.banana-pi.org/m3-download.html
http://www.banana-pi.org/m2-download.html
I tested it using 2 different SD Cards, and also only using a USB Stick.
everything was producing the same error.
Is there something I missed?
Thanks in advance.
It sounds like an underpowering situation.
If you have a barrel jack instead of micro usb use the barrel jack.
The pre-production samples of this board had the usual 4.0/1.7mm barrel jack for DC-IN BPi M2/M2+ also use. This has been replaced by a Micro USB jack on the first production batch in Dec 2015 leading to the usual sorts of problems banana-pi.org forums are full of (see also next paragraph for some reasons). Starting in May 2016 Micro USB has been replaced by the 4.0/1.7mm barrel jack again so powering is possible more reliable now. The Micro USB receptacle on the longer board side is USB OTG, also connected to the board's PMIC and while looking like an alternative way to power the board that's not recommended unless you love underpowering situations, reboot loops and the like.
I had the same problems at one point, like #Hagen said, it could be under powered, make sure you have a 5V, 2A rated power supply. The other cause of the red led and no boot is the lack of a micro SD card. Try pushing it in a bit further though not with much force and hit reboot. if you get 3 leds, it works!
This Banana PI M3 device starts up and works normally when power supply connector (4mm/1,7mm) and a micro USB connect put to device of Banana same time from same 5V power supply. I think in the device may have something grounding problems.
I am new to Arduino and I have 2 issues when I tried the BluetoothShieldDemo.
I can only send data from bluetooth module(through serial monitor) to phone but I cannot send from phone to bluetooth module(to display it in serial monitor). I used oscilloscope to check there is signal in the Arduino board RX pin but no data display in the serial monitor. I suspect it is an IO issue so I changed the IO from digital pin 6 and 7 to digital pin 2 and 3, then digital pin 4 and 5. But it is still not working. Then I change the code to use hardware serial (Serial1) and it is working now. I just wonder why it is not working with the SoftwareSerial.
Although I can send and receive data, I cannot change the bluetooth name. The bluetooth module has no response when the below commands are sent. Is it the bluetooth module is in some kind of locked mode? Or the command is different from manufacturer? The bluetooth module that I got has a single CSR 31A2 chip on it. But the other shield that I saw on the web has 2 chips and it is with CSR BC417.
Codes:
blueToothSerial.print("\r\n+STWMOD=0\r\n");
blueToothSerial.print("\r\n+STNA=BluetoothSlave\r\n");
blueToothSerial.print("\r\n+STOAUT=1\r\n");
blueToothSerial.print("\r\n+STAUTO=0\r\n");
delay(2000);
blueToothSerial.print("\r\n+INQ=1\r\n");
Thanks in advance!
1- When using SoftwareSerial, how are you declaring the pins (Input/Output)?, Are you pulling serial data right (giving it enough time between data transmission, but reading at the right time)?
2- Find the datasheet of your module and see what commands does it support.
I'm working on a project with Android and Arduino and am trying to figure out how on the Arduino side to tell if the Bluetooth is connected or not.
I'm using one of these Bluetooth Modules to connect. I know I can send a command through Android, but I'm trying to have an action happen automatically when they connect and not have to run a background application on the Android if possible.
Using the module supplied and nothing else you cannot: notice the module has four connectors:
Power (Vcc)
Ground
Tx (send)
Rx (receive)
Given this interface the only way to determine whether the bluetooth module is paired is to send something to the paired device and have it respond in such as way that your Arduino knows that it is connected. For instance, if your Android program always responds with "Hi there!" when it receives a string "Hello?", then by seingin "Hello?" your Arduino will know that it is paired with your Android phone/tablet. Your Arduino could poll (send the interrogation string) every minute (or every five seconds) to see if it is paired with your device.
There is a better way, but it will require some soldering on your part. If your module is HC-03/HC-05-based, then the PIO9 pin is the "paired indicator LED" (see datasheet here). You could connect that pin to an Arduino input pin and read the level: reading digital 1 will indicate that the device is paired, while reading digital 0 will indicate that it is not. It is possible, though not certain, that the pin on your module labeled STATE is exactly this kind of a pin, i.e. it indicates the paired status. Unfortunately. this pin it isn't connected to the header, so you'll have to solder a wire to the correctponding pad to connect it to your Arduino. You should test it first by connecting a multimeter in voltage mode to that pad and measure the potential between that pad and ground in paired and non-paired state. If this is the pin that responds to the paired state then you are golden. It might be that it indicates power (like the HC-03/05 PIO8 whilc blinks when on). If it turns out that the STATE pin is not the pairing status, then you should request a datasheet from your supplier, and use that to find the status LED connection: one is likely to exist. Once you found the correct pad, verify its function using the voltmeter again. Then solder a wire to that connection and read it from your Arduino.
IMPORTANT: Make sure that your Arduino never puts out a digital 1 on the Arduino pin connected to the bluetooth module status pin: these bluetooth modules run on 3.3V, and connecting any unprotected pins to 5V will be damaging. The Vcc and Txd pins are voltage shifted in the module you bought, but the LED/Status lines are likely not to be. So if the Arduino pin connected to "status" on your Bluetooth module is configured as output and you digitalWrite(HIGH) to it, you will likely damage the Bluetooth module.
Unfortuntaely, the HC-05 will switch states when paired, but won't output a 1 until it's actually connected to something.
For instance, I can unpair my phone from the HC-05, pair again, and then the LED will change state, but the output of the STATE pin is still 0. If I open up an app, and connect to the device manually then the LED, and STATE pin will change state. The LED will periodically blink twice, and the STATE pin outputs a 1 to the Arduino.
If you would like to read the the value of the STATE pin, connect a wire to any of the inputs to the arduino, and code Serial.println(digitalRead(inputPin)); inputPin being the wire to the input of the Arduino.
I've been fighting this thing for months, and have yet to find a way to make this thing automatically connect to my phone. It won't even allow for me to connect to it from my phone to the HC-05 unless I download an app onto my Android. It's possible to bind the HC-05 to a certain address, but even this did not work for me. I want to mess with the "AT+CLASS" command, but the documentation behind the instruction has hindered me thus far.
From the HC-05 datasheet we see that the connection status depends on the output from PI09. Apparently sending "AT+BIND?" to the module will return the status of PI08 & PI09 in the form,
"+ POLAR=PI08,PI09" however this makes no sense to me because in order to get this you must enter AT mode and entering AT mode will disrupt the paired connection, hence it will always send PI09 marked as "not connected".
THUS in order to see if the connection is still live from the arduinos POV I can only see 2 feasible ways:
Program arduino to, every so often, send a "hello?" and if it doesn't receive the expected "Hi back" response, then it is to assume that it isn't connected.
Connect PI09 to an arduino input pin and read it's value whenever you want to check if the connection is live or not
AT+STATE? will return the current state of the connection. Yes you will need to enter at mode, that is done by bringing up pin 11 HIGH on the HC05 module. It does require soldering but it's kinda worth it. It then allows full AT control of the device, then set it LOW to return it to normal working mode.
Another option, which I don't fully understand, is the AT+MPIO? command, which returns the state of all the pins in some strange masked format I don't understand yet.
I use the first option above so that I can terminal (Bluetooth) from my phone to the HC05 and switch on a led/relay etc (ie bring up pin 2 to HIGH) on the HC05. This required entering AT mode (pin 11 HIGH), sending the command AT+PIO=2,1 and then setting pin 11 to LOW to return to normal working mode.
Note: I noticed I had to put a 200ms delay in between high and AT and LOW commands. Angela's solution is nice - I use a cheap XBEE Bluetooth module (HC-05 Bluetooth Bee Master & Slave Module with Bluetooth XBee for Arduino uk2015) 2 units(HC05/6) for 5Stg which are laid out in XBEE format - handy for the 3.3v.
I built a robot from a thin client pc (can run Windows CE or Linux) and two servo motors. I put USB ends on the servo motors, so when they are plugged in to the thin client they continuously run. In Linux, how could I set the amount of current or voltage going from the USB ports to the servo motors? Would I be able to run a shell script to set the power of a certain USB port to slow down a motor or stop one? If this cannot be done through software, what is the easiest way to do this through hardware without having to buy too much?
The USB voltage is fixed at a nominal 5 volts and cannot be controlled.
The behavior of USB devices regarding their current draw is well defined in the USB specifications. USB devices are supposed to draw up to 1 unit load (100mA) unless they have negotiated a higher load from the USB host. It's quite likely that the servo motors that you have are going to need to draw higher currents than that, and wouldn't be able to request it without being a USB device and negotiating with the host.
It's also likely, depending on the servo motor that you are trying to control, that you'll need to either provide a PWM signal or an analogue voltage to control motor position. USB hosts are not intended to provide either of these.
Your best options to drive your motor from your PC are:
Get a dedicated USB controller for your servo motor (if one exists)
Make your own, based on a small microprocessor (eg. using an arduino)
Choose a different port on the PC. If available, PC parallel ports can be controlled to provide control for motor drivers.
The answers here seem to say it is a hardware issue, but I think this is a software issue. ASUS has Ai Charge which more then doubles the volts to charging Apple products from a standard 2.0 usb port.
USB 1.0, 2.0 and 3.0 Specs (All at 5 volts) 4 Wires (2 Data and 2
dedicated power)
Voltage Breakdown: USB 1.0 and USB 2.0 = 0.5A or 500 mA = 2.5 watt
USB 3.0 = 0.9A or 900mA = 4.5 watt Wall wart = 1.5A or 1500 mA = 7.5
watt Ai Charge = 1.2A or 1200mA = 6 watt
Ai Charge works on ASUS and non-ASUS motherboards and is a program you can install in Windows.
Personally I HATE Apple so I want to figure out a way to do this 1.2A usb 2.0 output trick for my netbook while running Linux.
I don't believe it is possible to directly manipulate the USB voltages. They are designed to provide a +5V output at all times unless power is diminised with other hubs.
You might be better served posting this question on http://electronics.stackexchange.com
you need to use PWM to control motors speed, to do that you need a micro controller, PIC18F series supports USB communication, there are plenty of code samples available internet how to use USB in PIC18F series, also you need a transistor array or H-Bridge to control mortors from PIC.
The simplest way to communicate is, program a USB serial in PIC18F micro controller, and when you plug that 18F to your computer, it will detect USB serial port, so you can send the commands to serial port to control speeds.
I dont think its possible, and even if it was, consider this: The USB port is not suposed to power motors because you can burn the USB port. USB is limited to 500mA (or there abouts) and any power device like a motor can potentially require more than that.
Another thing is that servos should be driven with constant voltage, and the speed is controlled by timing impulses on the control wire.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation
You should use a driver (hardware) to power the motor with an external power source.
This is transistor's purpose, or try with a potentiometer