I have a HM-10 (probably a clone) which I managed to get into AT mode quickly (by shortening 5V and GND prior to connecting it to the ESP8266 where it's running on), and I can configure it, but I just cannot get it out of AT mode. AT+RESET gives me "OK", but contrary to my HC-05, it doesn't switch from slow to fast blinking and is also not discoverable from my MacBook.
I have tried AT+ORGL and AT+RENEW as well, but to no avail.
Does anyone have an idea how to get it working again? Because this way, it's kind of bricked.
Also, is there a way to make the device have a four digit pin only? When I use AT+PIN0000 it returns ERR, only when I use AT+PIN000000 it returns OK.
Related
Let me start off with the components used:
GPIO extension board to connect the raspberry pi to components
Bme280
Pi 3B
Problem description:
This problem was intermittent at first. We were receiving reading and the error occured out of nowhere, made adjustment to the sensor(taking out and putting it back in) which solved it but when we touch the sensor the error showed up again.
We decided to change the sensor and the problem turned from intermittent to persistent. Now we have this as permanent issue.
We removed the package for BME280 and SmBus2 and decided to reinstall it again.
RPI Bme280: https://pypi.org/project/RPi.bme280/
I followed this BME280 installation guide, however when prompting for 'i2cdetect -y 1' there were lines but no number showing up.
What has been confirmed so far:
Patching up of circuits was fine, tested with my lecturer pi and it
works fine.
Codes is fine, we even use the sample code provided by RPi.bme280
I2c was enabled everytime
Please help me because I am really lost. I needa submit this by next week so any help is appreciated.
Problem pic --> Picture of the problem
I've tried to respond, but there is a few pitfalls in SMBus and i2c, so to break the question into smaller bits I've quoted your original message with an indent. The response is provided beneath.
This problem was intermittent at first. We were receiving reading and the error occurred out of nowhere, made adjustment to the sensor(taking out and putting it back in) which solved it but when we touch the sensor the error showed up again.
I locked onto the statement, "Touched the sensor". Is there a chance the BME280 experienced an ESD discharge? And therefore is now partially or fully broken?
Are you using an ESD safe room? or at least ESD bracelet. You will not notice small ESD discharges, and for small electronics even a sub 1000V discharge can cause damage instantly or over time. (Fundamentals of Electrostatic Discarge - incompliancemag.com)
I followed this BME280 installation guide, however when prompting for 'i2cdetect -y 1' there were lines but no number showing up.
The I2Cdetect -y 1
Will send a ReadBit message to each possible slave 0-127. Then listens for the ACK on the slave address.
The message is very simple, but does the trick for detecting working i2c slaves.
As you stated there is no "Lines", i would suggest the slave either has issues responding, if the BME280 has the correct 3v3+GND supplied.
As another possability, could you redo this step dtparam=i2c_arm=on,i2c_baudrate=400000
(Set the baudrate way down to 10000 /10k. Should this solve the issue and you need higher bandwidth, attempt on "50000 /50k" or "100000 /100k") This is just to eliminate the possibility the slave cannot opperate on this high frequency. 400k Baudrate for SMBus is high for a prototype/testing scenario. Very small amounts of interference can corrupt the data over SDA.
Another possibility is the Sink-Current which i've learned the hard way is not the same on i2c and SMBus over i2c.
Is you Pull-up resistor appropriate for the limited sink-current?
The SMBus specifies a minimum sink current of 100µA, and a maximum of 350µA, compared to 3mA for the I²C bus (Ampere=Voltage/Resistance Ohm).
Now to the Software issue.
From your supplied picture on imgur.
File "newcodes_''''''''''''''.py" line 2, in
Your compiler cannot find "bme" where you attempt to import bme280. Reference/path issue?
This can be the cause for other issues further into the code calls.
I don't know what SW you are writing the code in, but if there is an option to insert a breakpoint and run a debug build. I would suggest starting there :)
Alright I have resolved the issue, I changed the wire from jumper wire to hard wire. Thank you guys for your response. I appreciate all of them :D
I have a bluetooth keyboard that I use on a regular basis. It has a Logitech logo, but is manufactured by ZAGG and has model number Y-R0023.
I have paired the keyboard with my Ubuntu desktop and it works great.
Upon powering up my computer and keyboard, I can sometimes reconnect without having to pair again, but other times I have to remove the existing pairing and reconnect before Ubuntu can receive keystrokes.
Extra information: Ubuntu displays a bluetooth symbol as a status when it connects (regardless if it is able to receive keystrokes or not). This symbol will appear and disappear roughly every 10 seconds until the two devices are able to successfully negotiate a valid connection.
I notice that I have best success when I press 'delete-delete-enter-enter' after powering the ZAGG keyboard up. (Sometimes, just repeatedly pressing a key every second or so seems to work too.)
I am wondering if the "delete-delete-enter" keystroke combination (or some other that I haven't discovered) is recognized by the Logitech BIOS as a special sequence to help retry a paired re-connection. I'd be interested in finding out if this trick works for devices other than those made by ZAGG. Otherwise, it would help just to know if there is a reliable script I can run that calls bluetoothctl to help improve the re-connection. (I want to avoid having to enter a pairing code on subsequent connections).
ZAGG sites and Logitech ones don't say anything about this key combination. So I don't think it's recognized as a special sequence, only advice they give is to re-pair the device when it's not working.
In summary I'm sure they would include this troubleshooting option in manual and/or troubleshooting guide if it was present.
I am a beginner to arduino and trying to follow one of the videos from youtube to make a project- Master And Slave using HC-05 modules. I followed every step from that video carefully. Here's the link to the video ->
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BXXAcFOTnBo
For Slave Module when I type AT commands in the serial monitor nothing shows up.
I searched in Internet for the this problem and still didn't fix it. Here's What i have done:
tired restarting my pc
tried Changing arduino, At first i used arduino nano and then uno
I tried changing the baud rate to all other values and nothing happened
And there is no change in light blink, it stays on AT command mode until power is turned off and on again.
This is how is looks
Thank You For the Answer
Your problem is not actually related to arduino in any way. This tutorial is utilizing onboard USB->UART transceiver IC. So in theory you could even remove Atmel chip from the board. Its more like using module like this FT232 converter. Anyways sorry if I confused you but you can research the subject.
But anyways to the problem. Couple of questions:
Did you press reset button on module while powerin up the circuit?
Thats the way it enters to AT command mode
Did you try to reverse RX-TX lines, don't worry connecting these guys across eatch other doesn't harm your board.
(They are so often plugged in wrong..)
Did you make sure you have connected EN pin of module also. (To arduino 3.3V not 5V)
Did you triple check all connections
Try to upload simple Sketch like blinky to Arduino to make sure you are connected to USB-UART transeiver and you have correct drivers.
Make sure you upload empty sketch or remove the chip when you try to apply tutorial steps.
Change jumper wires. Sometimes cheap jumper wires are really bad quality.
I have been sometimes scratching head for long time because of broken jumper cable.
Please let me know if you have checked all of those so we can think for next step.
When I turn on Hm-10 Bluetooth module, it's LED blinks for 5 seconds and then it become still ( the led is always on without blinking ).
At these 5 seconds I can find it when I make a search for nearby Bluetooth devices and I can enter to AT command ( I write AT and it returns OK), after the 5 seconds can't find it with search and when I use AT commands it does not respond.
Can you help me to figure out the problem?
I have faced the same problem with Hm-10 and when I bring another one it works perfect.
The problem may be hardware problem and you must replace it or a problem with the firmware (I uploaded another firmware and the problem wasn't solved but may be another firmware will solve the problem)
I'm working on a project with Android and Arduino and am trying to figure out how on the Arduino side to tell if the Bluetooth is connected or not.
I'm using one of these Bluetooth Modules to connect. I know I can send a command through Android, but I'm trying to have an action happen automatically when they connect and not have to run a background application on the Android if possible.
Using the module supplied and nothing else you cannot: notice the module has four connectors:
Power (Vcc)
Ground
Tx (send)
Rx (receive)
Given this interface the only way to determine whether the bluetooth module is paired is to send something to the paired device and have it respond in such as way that your Arduino knows that it is connected. For instance, if your Android program always responds with "Hi there!" when it receives a string "Hello?", then by seingin "Hello?" your Arduino will know that it is paired with your Android phone/tablet. Your Arduino could poll (send the interrogation string) every minute (or every five seconds) to see if it is paired with your device.
There is a better way, but it will require some soldering on your part. If your module is HC-03/HC-05-based, then the PIO9 pin is the "paired indicator LED" (see datasheet here). You could connect that pin to an Arduino input pin and read the level: reading digital 1 will indicate that the device is paired, while reading digital 0 will indicate that it is not. It is possible, though not certain, that the pin on your module labeled STATE is exactly this kind of a pin, i.e. it indicates the paired status. Unfortunately. this pin it isn't connected to the header, so you'll have to solder a wire to the correctponding pad to connect it to your Arduino. You should test it first by connecting a multimeter in voltage mode to that pad and measure the potential between that pad and ground in paired and non-paired state. If this is the pin that responds to the paired state then you are golden. It might be that it indicates power (like the HC-03/05 PIO8 whilc blinks when on). If it turns out that the STATE pin is not the pairing status, then you should request a datasheet from your supplier, and use that to find the status LED connection: one is likely to exist. Once you found the correct pad, verify its function using the voltmeter again. Then solder a wire to that connection and read it from your Arduino.
IMPORTANT: Make sure that your Arduino never puts out a digital 1 on the Arduino pin connected to the bluetooth module status pin: these bluetooth modules run on 3.3V, and connecting any unprotected pins to 5V will be damaging. The Vcc and Txd pins are voltage shifted in the module you bought, but the LED/Status lines are likely not to be. So if the Arduino pin connected to "status" on your Bluetooth module is configured as output and you digitalWrite(HIGH) to it, you will likely damage the Bluetooth module.
Unfortuntaely, the HC-05 will switch states when paired, but won't output a 1 until it's actually connected to something.
For instance, I can unpair my phone from the HC-05, pair again, and then the LED will change state, but the output of the STATE pin is still 0. If I open up an app, and connect to the device manually then the LED, and STATE pin will change state. The LED will periodically blink twice, and the STATE pin outputs a 1 to the Arduino.
If you would like to read the the value of the STATE pin, connect a wire to any of the inputs to the arduino, and code Serial.println(digitalRead(inputPin)); inputPin being the wire to the input of the Arduino.
I've been fighting this thing for months, and have yet to find a way to make this thing automatically connect to my phone. It won't even allow for me to connect to it from my phone to the HC-05 unless I download an app onto my Android. It's possible to bind the HC-05 to a certain address, but even this did not work for me. I want to mess with the "AT+CLASS" command, but the documentation behind the instruction has hindered me thus far.
From the HC-05 datasheet we see that the connection status depends on the output from PI09. Apparently sending "AT+BIND?" to the module will return the status of PI08 & PI09 in the form,
"+ POLAR=PI08,PI09" however this makes no sense to me because in order to get this you must enter AT mode and entering AT mode will disrupt the paired connection, hence it will always send PI09 marked as "not connected".
THUS in order to see if the connection is still live from the arduinos POV I can only see 2 feasible ways:
Program arduino to, every so often, send a "hello?" and if it doesn't receive the expected "Hi back" response, then it is to assume that it isn't connected.
Connect PI09 to an arduino input pin and read it's value whenever you want to check if the connection is live or not
AT+STATE? will return the current state of the connection. Yes you will need to enter at mode, that is done by bringing up pin 11 HIGH on the HC05 module. It does require soldering but it's kinda worth it. It then allows full AT control of the device, then set it LOW to return it to normal working mode.
Another option, which I don't fully understand, is the AT+MPIO? command, which returns the state of all the pins in some strange masked format I don't understand yet.
I use the first option above so that I can terminal (Bluetooth) from my phone to the HC05 and switch on a led/relay etc (ie bring up pin 2 to HIGH) on the HC05. This required entering AT mode (pin 11 HIGH), sending the command AT+PIO=2,1 and then setting pin 11 to LOW to return to normal working mode.
Note: I noticed I had to put a 200ms delay in between high and AT and LOW commands. Angela's solution is nice - I use a cheap XBEE Bluetooth module (HC-05 Bluetooth Bee Master & Slave Module with Bluetooth XBee for Arduino uk2015) 2 units(HC05/6) for 5Stg which are laid out in XBEE format - handy for the 3.3v.