Over 10 hours spend on this and really drive me crazy, any help is appreciate!
Tried with Android phone first:
Samsung NOTE2, Samsung Grand2, Samsung Glaxy S2 with android 2.2, android 4.2, androind 4.4 both with Original official NXT firmware, and latest LeJOS, If pairing from phone to NXT, the NXT would prompt window, just input the PIN same as in phone, but just quickly NXT returned to main menu, nothing more could see and still empty in Contracts list. otherwise, pairing from NXT to Phone, after Phone input the PIN, the NXT still say 'line is busy' or 'unsuccessful' in LeJOS, while the Phone state the NXT is paired successfully.
Tried with PC to NXT, both in WinXP and Win7, I even bought a standalone Bluetooth USB Key, similar, once Input the PIN in PC same as the one in NXT set, the NXT quickly to say 'Line is busy', then the PC always take couple minutes to finish the Driver installation seems like mapping to some COM Port, then PC state paired successfully, but it never did in NXT.
I googled a lot, no useful information can get. Any idea?
Finally I get it to work by replace the Bluetooth stack in my laptop, the experience proved the windows 7 stack can't suit, the one I used now is called bluesoleil, it also provide a management software, which I would say the UI really worried me at the beginning, it likes the very old days software, even more, it asking for license.
with this bluesoleil, I also get my arduino bluetooth sensor paired to my laptop.
I tried a generic stack provided by broadcom, but failed by it keep asking me to plug in the bluetooth adapter, and actually it's always there.
So I have to give up the paring between NXT and android phone, the andorid phone don't support replace the bluetooth stack except refresh another ROM.
Hope this information could help someone like me.
Related
I have a wired keyboard (Drop Ctrl) plugged into a port on my Macbook Pro, and it's working. Both the keyboard and the laptop require USB-C, so my cable is USB-C-->USB-2 with a USB2-->USB-C adapter. (It might be USB-3 instead of 2, I'm not sure). At any rate, the cable+adapter combo works.
I bought an Apple USB-C to USB-C cable, and it doesn't work. The keyboard doesn't seem to get any power.
I've tried the Apple cable on all USB-C laptop ports, still doesn't work. I went from laptop to Pixel phone using the same Apple cable and it charges the phone. So I'm scratching my head. What am I missing?
It turns out that the keyboard won't work with USB-C 3, only USB-C 2. I hope this helps someone else.
Two things I have found with macbooks.
my power block will stop charging my power book until I unplug it and plug it back in. It is pluggeding into a power bar so I don't see why any internal protection circuit should be tripped.
my childs macbook air would not power up. She was leaving it on her bed covers thus blocking the vents and overheating. Once I put it on a hard surface it started to charge and power up. It appears the system would not charge while the air vents where blocked.. I am guessing that charging causes heat and it would trip the sensor stoping charging.
I got some brand new banana Pi's,
these are the "Banana Pi-M2" and the "Banana Pi-M3"
I was trying to install Debian on both of them, but I couldn't get it to work.
I was exactly following this tutorial here (Windows):
http://wiki.lemaker.org/BananaPro/Pi:SD_card_installation
to save Debian on the SD Card.
The Problem is always the same. When pressing the power Button on the "M3", or plugging in the "M2", only the red LED goes on and nothing happens.
The LED for the LAN port stays off, so it comes close that the Pi is not booting up.
The power supply I am using produces 5V and 2100mA which should fit the conditions for the Banana Pi.
The distros I then tried to install were for example Bananian which I got from here:
https://www.bananian.org/download
And several distros like Debian from here:
http://www.banana-pi.org/m3-download.html
http://www.banana-pi.org/m2-download.html
I tested it using 2 different SD Cards, and also only using a USB Stick.
everything was producing the same error.
Is there something I missed?
Thanks in advance.
It sounds like an underpowering situation.
If you have a barrel jack instead of micro usb use the barrel jack.
The pre-production samples of this board had the usual 4.0/1.7mm barrel jack for DC-IN BPi M2/M2+ also use. This has been replaced by a Micro USB jack on the first production batch in Dec 2015 leading to the usual sorts of problems banana-pi.org forums are full of (see also next paragraph for some reasons). Starting in May 2016 Micro USB has been replaced by the 4.0/1.7mm barrel jack again so powering is possible more reliable now. The Micro USB receptacle on the longer board side is USB OTG, also connected to the board's PMIC and while looking like an alternative way to power the board that's not recommended unless you love underpowering situations, reboot loops and the like.
I had the same problems at one point, like #Hagen said, it could be under powered, make sure you have a 5V, 2A rated power supply. The other cause of the red led and no boot is the lack of a micro SD card. Try pushing it in a bit further though not with much force and hit reboot. if you get 3 leds, it works!
This Banana PI M3 device starts up and works normally when power supply connector (4mm/1,7mm) and a micro USB connect put to device of Banana same time from same 5V power supply. I think in the device may have something grounding problems.
The situation goes a little something like this:
I am programming Xcode whilst concurrently listening to music on my Bluetooth headphones... you know to block out the world.
Then, I go to launch my app in the iOS simulator and BOOM all of a sudden my crystal clear music becomes garbled and super low quality like it is playing in a bathtub 2 blocks away... in the 1940s.
Note: the quality deterioration does NOT occur if I am playing music on my laptop or cinema display and I launch the sim. It seems to be exclusively a Sim -> Bluetooth issue.
The problem is more than just annoying. Because often after stopping the simulator the crappy bathtub quality music continues. To fix it I have to open sound preferences in OSX and briefly toggle back to my laptop sound and then back to my Bluetooth headphones.
This is a big deal because I launch the simulator 50x a day and have to do this toggle thing every time as well as suffer listening to 40s era mono ham radio quality music.
For your information, the headphones I am using are Plantronics BackBeat Pro and I am up to date on firmware. I am on OSX 10.11.4 and Xcode 7.3... but this problem has persisted through all versions for 2+ years now. Can you save me from the 1940s?
I've managed to fix it, and it actually seems to be a microphone issue. Go to System Preferences -> Sound, select the Input tab and set Internal Microphone as the input (mine was set with my headphones').
Crappy sound goes way after that =)
EDIT (May 30 2018):
I've found out an easier way to do the same as above. Instead of opening the System Preferences, you can just go to the Mac OSX toolbar, press Option (alt) + click on the sound icon and then select "Internal Microphone" from the "Input Device" list. Print screen as follows.
If you're using Xcode 9 or higher, you can set a default audio input and output for the simulator. This can be done by launching the simulator from Xcode and navigating to I/O > Audio Input within the menu bar and selecting Internal Microphone. This solution will save your audio preference so you won't have to change it on every launch.
On Simulator, Select;
I/O -> Audio Input -> Macbook [Pro]
Done.
Seems like years of suffering are finally over, Xcode 12 Beta Release Notes:
Simulator defaults to the internal microphone unless you explicitly choose a different audio source. This avoids triggering phone call mode on Bluetooth headsets which degrades audio quality while listening to music. (59338925, 59803381)
You can also switch to Mac's internal mic in System Preferences -> Sound, that's how I usually fix this bug (I have Sony Wh-1000XM3)
I'm working on some home automation programs and one of the things I want to be able to do is detect when my 4th generation Apple TV has woken from sleep. This will generally only ever happen when someone pressed a button on its Siri remote to wake it up.
I have a PC (connected to the same TV as the Apple TV) that has a Pulse-Eight USB-CEC adapter, so naturally the first thing I tried was using CEC to determine when the Apple TV is awake. Unfortunately it's not reliable, since monitoring the Apple TV's power status to see when it wakes up produces false positives. (I should note that I do not have "Control TVs and Receivers" enabled on the Apple TV, and can't turn it on for the particular project I'm working on because I need the Apple TV to not change the TV's input.)
I'm trying to think of some other way to do this. I'm open to any possibilities, including things like:
Making use of private APIs on the Apple TV
Running an 'always on' program in the background of the Apple TV that sends a signal when the Apple TV wakes up, if that's even possible. (I suspect that it isn't.)
Monitoring the bluetooth communication between the Siri Remote and the Apple TV, if that's possible
Somehow filtering HDMI-CEC commands so that I can turn on 'Control TVs and Receivers', allow the Apple TV's CEC commands for turning on and off the TV, and exclude commands for changing the TV's input.
Any other method, no matter how hacky or ridiculous, as long as it works!
Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm running out of things to try!
I tried to post below on apple discussion / support communities but was told i don't have the right to post this content. Maybe someone in this group can succeed in doing it:
Apple TV 4 CEC integration is great when it works, but it doesn't work all the time and not with all the various equipment out there, you can do a search across forums and you will see lots of unhappy users. I would like to use a raspberry PI to detect when my AppleTV goes to sleep and wakes up and programmatically turn my tv on or off using its RS232C or custom CEC commands.
I used a bonjour services explorer and compared every single result between sleep and on states and there are no differences whatsoever. I would have expected Apple to welcome such automation projects and make this information readily available with a variable such as status: sleep or status: on.
Is there a way I could tell the two states apart via the network connection?
If not, could one build a TvOS app which runs on the background and makes this information available to clients somehow?
I finally found a method that seems to work consistently. This method is incredibly hacky and not at all the sort of way I'd prefer to do this, but it's the only one I've found so far that works consistently.
I have taken an old USB webcam and affixed it to the front of my Apple TV so that its lens is directly in front of the Apply TV's front facing light. Whenever the Apple TV is asleep, I simply check for the light turning on by taking images from the camera and analyzing their average luminosity. Since the lens is right next to the light, when it turns on it'll create a huge blown out white circle in the image that's incredibly easy to detect.
As long as the Apple TV is asleep, the light turning on seems to indicate 100% of the time that it has woken up. I have yet to find a single incident of either a false positive or false negative.
Since pressing buttons on the Siri remote causes this light to blink, this also means that I can detect buttons being pressed by looking for changes in the light while the Apple TV is awake. It's not 100% accurate, since some button presses are faster than the frame rate of my crappy old USB webcam, but it works well enough.
I would vastly prefer to find a better method of doing this, like making a request over the LAN to the Apple TV where the response clearly indicates it being awake or asleep, but so far it doesn't look like that's possible.
Here I am, six and a half years later, and I've finally found a better way to get the power state of my Apple TV.
I can simply use pyatv, which has a function named power_state that returns the Apple TV's current power state.
Does anyone know how to reset an Advanced Card Systems NFC reader type ACR1255U-J1? I've sent an escape command to it and it got stuck. When I switch the button at the top I get a purple light for LED1 and orange light for LED2 followed by red light for LED1 and no light for LED2. Any help will be appriciated.
I can see the device through Mac Terminal when it is connected through USB but it is no longer visible when bluetooth is on.
Once the ACS1255U-J1 shows the behavior you described it's basically bricked. It happens because of a stack overflow problem (no pun intended) in the readers' firmware and ACS is currently working to correct it. I've seen it happen repeatedly with very long Escape Commands like the Rewrite Master Key Command Request (36 bytes long) as well as some shorter ones. Depending on the severity of the overflow, you may be able to resurrect the reader by reflashing it with fresh firmware. You can download all the stuff you need from our site here:
http://flomio.com/ACR1255U-J1-FlashTool/
You'll need a Win7 machine to work the tool and even then it'll take a few tries to get the reader in DFU mode. If you run into issues, post support questions on our forums and we'll be happy to help.
That said your device corruption may be beyond repair. This can happen if you've wiped out the boot sector of the flash. You'll know this if the reader fails to enter DFU mode. I've been able to resurrect a few readers but found them lacking some key setting like the serial number field being gone (all zeros). But more just don't enter DFU. We're authorized distributors of ACS products so if you want to RMA your device through us let me know and we can work something out.
UPDATE: Flomio now has the ability to repair bricked ACR1255U-J1 units. You can ping us on our forums for details.