My problem is there was a spark when I plug in the voltage source of my 220 V bulb.I have my arduino uno r3,hc-05 Bluetooth Module,Relay Module and 220V bulb.
I cut the wire of my 220V Bulb.
One wire that is near to the bulb was connected to (COM)common connection of our relay.
The other cut was connected to ground.
The Relay Module's VCC was connected to Arduino's 5V.
The Relay's input pin was connected arduino's pin 13 as well as the Normally open(NO) pin of reay.The Relay's ground ws also connected to Arduino's ground.
My Bluetooth module tx was connected to aruino's rx ans Bluetooth module's rx was connected to tx.
I also connected Bluetooth Module,5v to the Arduino's 5v.
and A ground from Bluetooth module to Arduino's Ground.
I made my own version of schematic diagram and this is how it works.It is not that nice but I hoope you will understand.
The small squares serve's as the BreadBoard
https://twitter.com/n_galia/status/419876079403147264/photo/1
Here is a simple relay driver you can use with the Arduino. The component values are not super important, R4 could be larger, R3 can be larger, you can use just about any 5V relay and any NPN transistor. As show it should work with most low/medium sized relay. When active you can check the voltage between Q1's collector and ground. It should be less then a volt. About 4mA is provided by the Ardunio, far below it's output capacity.
PLEASE BE CAREFUL!! you are working with high current and high voltage power. Blowing up an Ardunio is minor compared to the damage you can do to yourself.
The revised schematic might not work either. If your relay is a basic relay a driver will be required. The Ardunio can only sink about 20mA and it's likely your relay will need more to function correctly. The relay coil might look like a short to the Arduino.
If you have a relay with a built in logic level driver or a solid state relay, or even a TRIAC part (not a relay) you might be OK.
In situations like this its advised to use an optical coupler between the Arduino and the relay.
The optical coupler has a transistor that will dive the relay in its output, the transistor is actually a light sensitive transistor (photo-transistor) which is turned on via an LED built into the package. The Arduino would drive this LED (though a limiting resistor) which would activate the transistor to drive the Relay. This way the low voltage electronics are totally protected and isolated from the high voltage stuff.
Ouch!
The Arduino is not compatible of dealing with your 220Vac lines from power and to the light.
Your Arduino may not function correctly anymore.
I have attached a revision to your wiring.
Related
A while ago I successfully used a Sparkfun Polar Heart Rate Monitor Interface (SEN-08661) to convert a 'Spirit' cross trainer to pick up the Bluetooth signal from my Polar H10 chest strap instead of needing to use their proprietary wireless chest strap. (This was so I could use just one strap for both my phone and the machine).
The SEN-08661 interface board, often used with Arduino or Raspberry pi systems, receives the Bluetooth HR signal from the chest strap and outputs a simple 5v pulse for each beat, which I fed into the training machine in place of the receiver that was in there originally.
I now want to repeat this with a Lifefitness R1 recumbent bike but unfortunately it seems the SEN-08661 board is no longer available anywhere.
Does anyone know of a similar development board that I could use instead to pick up a Bluetooth HR signal from a Polar strap and output a pulse train?
Every search I do brings up loads of Bluetooth HR monitors but no Bluetooth HR receivers.
I realise this is not really a programming question but I'm hoping some programmers might know where to get the hardware (in the UK) from which to get the signal to process using programming!
I'm setting up a Raspberry Pi 4b with a number of Adafruit chips, and thus have used their CircuitPython library to control SPI communication. They've conveniently set up a way to use any GPIO pins as chip selects, but as a result I had no idea that there are two hardware chip selects on the Raspi (CE0 and CE1 on GPIO8 and GPIO7 respectively). I have already wired these pins (GPIO7&8) with the intention of using them as GPIO outputs, but I've noticed I GPIO8/CE0 is connected to the SPI clock.
Adafruit actually mentions that the NO_CS flag doesn't work in their documentation, and I can't seem to find anything useful online.
How can I disable the hardware CS pins? I know the SPI_NO_CS flag in SPI_MODE is already a bug in the spi-bcm library, and I found this patch, but I'm not sure if it would work (I think CircuitPython utilizes a hardware CS?), let alone how to apply it.
I would like to know if is possible to use an MCP23017 16 bit I/O expander with a MCP3008 ADC and read the voltage with a Raspberry Pi 2. I want to use the ADC as an I2C device. I would like to do this so I don't have to run the program a 'root', so I'm thinking that running the ADC as an I2C device will fix this problem. I'm looking for help with how to wire the system as well as programming it. I'm using the Python 3 editor. The existing program I have will be used to plot a sine wave generated by a AD9850 DDS module who's signal is amplified and fed into a device. I want to measure this voltage. I know how to use a voltage divider, but am having trouble coming up with a way to read it. The measured voltage value needs to be stored as global variable that can be passed around the program. Right now I'm mainly concerned with not running the program as a root, turning the ADC into an i2c device, and storing the voltage as a global variable to be passed around in an existing program.
I have not worked with any kind of I2C TO SPI converter. Still, you can use some I2C to SPI bridges if they work, I just googled it, but that can cause wiring problems.
I can suggest you the same ADC MCP series with I2C interface.Thus, the further I2C connections with MCP23017 expander and then the Raspberry pi would be easy.You can go through various analog to digital converters that can be I2C interfaced with their codes in python or java for pi like MCP3425, MCP3426, MCP3427, MCP3428. You can easily find them or also check control everything as that would be easy to interface using I2C cables and adapters preventing connection or wiring problems.For codes: https://github.com/ControlEverythingCommunity?utf8=%E2%9C%93&query=MCP34
The following codes for MCP_23017 can also help you code the way you want easily with expander being connected to pi:https://github.com/ControlEverythingCommunity/MCP23017_16-Channel.
I think this would solve your problem!!
Thanks.
I'm working on a project with Android and Arduino and am trying to figure out how on the Arduino side to tell if the Bluetooth is connected or not.
I'm using one of these Bluetooth Modules to connect. I know I can send a command through Android, but I'm trying to have an action happen automatically when they connect and not have to run a background application on the Android if possible.
Using the module supplied and nothing else you cannot: notice the module has four connectors:
Power (Vcc)
Ground
Tx (send)
Rx (receive)
Given this interface the only way to determine whether the bluetooth module is paired is to send something to the paired device and have it respond in such as way that your Arduino knows that it is connected. For instance, if your Android program always responds with "Hi there!" when it receives a string "Hello?", then by seingin "Hello?" your Arduino will know that it is paired with your Android phone/tablet. Your Arduino could poll (send the interrogation string) every minute (or every five seconds) to see if it is paired with your device.
There is a better way, but it will require some soldering on your part. If your module is HC-03/HC-05-based, then the PIO9 pin is the "paired indicator LED" (see datasheet here). You could connect that pin to an Arduino input pin and read the level: reading digital 1 will indicate that the device is paired, while reading digital 0 will indicate that it is not. It is possible, though not certain, that the pin on your module labeled STATE is exactly this kind of a pin, i.e. it indicates the paired status. Unfortunately. this pin it isn't connected to the header, so you'll have to solder a wire to the correctponding pad to connect it to your Arduino. You should test it first by connecting a multimeter in voltage mode to that pad and measure the potential between that pad and ground in paired and non-paired state. If this is the pin that responds to the paired state then you are golden. It might be that it indicates power (like the HC-03/05 PIO8 whilc blinks when on). If it turns out that the STATE pin is not the pairing status, then you should request a datasheet from your supplier, and use that to find the status LED connection: one is likely to exist. Once you found the correct pad, verify its function using the voltmeter again. Then solder a wire to that connection and read it from your Arduino.
IMPORTANT: Make sure that your Arduino never puts out a digital 1 on the Arduino pin connected to the bluetooth module status pin: these bluetooth modules run on 3.3V, and connecting any unprotected pins to 5V will be damaging. The Vcc and Txd pins are voltage shifted in the module you bought, but the LED/Status lines are likely not to be. So if the Arduino pin connected to "status" on your Bluetooth module is configured as output and you digitalWrite(HIGH) to it, you will likely damage the Bluetooth module.
Unfortuntaely, the HC-05 will switch states when paired, but won't output a 1 until it's actually connected to something.
For instance, I can unpair my phone from the HC-05, pair again, and then the LED will change state, but the output of the STATE pin is still 0. If I open up an app, and connect to the device manually then the LED, and STATE pin will change state. The LED will periodically blink twice, and the STATE pin outputs a 1 to the Arduino.
If you would like to read the the value of the STATE pin, connect a wire to any of the inputs to the arduino, and code Serial.println(digitalRead(inputPin)); inputPin being the wire to the input of the Arduino.
I've been fighting this thing for months, and have yet to find a way to make this thing automatically connect to my phone. It won't even allow for me to connect to it from my phone to the HC-05 unless I download an app onto my Android. It's possible to bind the HC-05 to a certain address, but even this did not work for me. I want to mess with the "AT+CLASS" command, but the documentation behind the instruction has hindered me thus far.
From the HC-05 datasheet we see that the connection status depends on the output from PI09. Apparently sending "AT+BIND?" to the module will return the status of PI08 & PI09 in the form,
"+ POLAR=PI08,PI09" however this makes no sense to me because in order to get this you must enter AT mode and entering AT mode will disrupt the paired connection, hence it will always send PI09 marked as "not connected".
THUS in order to see if the connection is still live from the arduinos POV I can only see 2 feasible ways:
Program arduino to, every so often, send a "hello?" and if it doesn't receive the expected "Hi back" response, then it is to assume that it isn't connected.
Connect PI09 to an arduino input pin and read it's value whenever you want to check if the connection is live or not
AT+STATE? will return the current state of the connection. Yes you will need to enter at mode, that is done by bringing up pin 11 HIGH on the HC05 module. It does require soldering but it's kinda worth it. It then allows full AT control of the device, then set it LOW to return it to normal working mode.
Another option, which I don't fully understand, is the AT+MPIO? command, which returns the state of all the pins in some strange masked format I don't understand yet.
I use the first option above so that I can terminal (Bluetooth) from my phone to the HC05 and switch on a led/relay etc (ie bring up pin 2 to HIGH) on the HC05. This required entering AT mode (pin 11 HIGH), sending the command AT+PIO=2,1 and then setting pin 11 to LOW to return to normal working mode.
Note: I noticed I had to put a 200ms delay in between high and AT and LOW commands. Angela's solution is nice - I use a cheap XBEE Bluetooth module (HC-05 Bluetooth Bee Master & Slave Module with Bluetooth XBee for Arduino uk2015) 2 units(HC05/6) for 5Stg which are laid out in XBEE format - handy for the 3.3v.
I built a robot from a thin client pc (can run Windows CE or Linux) and two servo motors. I put USB ends on the servo motors, so when they are plugged in to the thin client they continuously run. In Linux, how could I set the amount of current or voltage going from the USB ports to the servo motors? Would I be able to run a shell script to set the power of a certain USB port to slow down a motor or stop one? If this cannot be done through software, what is the easiest way to do this through hardware without having to buy too much?
The USB voltage is fixed at a nominal 5 volts and cannot be controlled.
The behavior of USB devices regarding their current draw is well defined in the USB specifications. USB devices are supposed to draw up to 1 unit load (100mA) unless they have negotiated a higher load from the USB host. It's quite likely that the servo motors that you have are going to need to draw higher currents than that, and wouldn't be able to request it without being a USB device and negotiating with the host.
It's also likely, depending on the servo motor that you are trying to control, that you'll need to either provide a PWM signal or an analogue voltage to control motor position. USB hosts are not intended to provide either of these.
Your best options to drive your motor from your PC are:
Get a dedicated USB controller for your servo motor (if one exists)
Make your own, based on a small microprocessor (eg. using an arduino)
Choose a different port on the PC. If available, PC parallel ports can be controlled to provide control for motor drivers.
The answers here seem to say it is a hardware issue, but I think this is a software issue. ASUS has Ai Charge which more then doubles the volts to charging Apple products from a standard 2.0 usb port.
USB 1.0, 2.0 and 3.0 Specs (All at 5 volts) 4 Wires (2 Data and 2
dedicated power)
Voltage Breakdown: USB 1.0 and USB 2.0 = 0.5A or 500 mA = 2.5 watt
USB 3.0 = 0.9A or 900mA = 4.5 watt Wall wart = 1.5A or 1500 mA = 7.5
watt Ai Charge = 1.2A or 1200mA = 6 watt
Ai Charge works on ASUS and non-ASUS motherboards and is a program you can install in Windows.
Personally I HATE Apple so I want to figure out a way to do this 1.2A usb 2.0 output trick for my netbook while running Linux.
I don't believe it is possible to directly manipulate the USB voltages. They are designed to provide a +5V output at all times unless power is diminised with other hubs.
You might be better served posting this question on http://electronics.stackexchange.com
you need to use PWM to control motors speed, to do that you need a micro controller, PIC18F series supports USB communication, there are plenty of code samples available internet how to use USB in PIC18F series, also you need a transistor array or H-Bridge to control mortors from PIC.
The simplest way to communicate is, program a USB serial in PIC18F micro controller, and when you plug that 18F to your computer, it will detect USB serial port, so you can send the commands to serial port to control speeds.
I dont think its possible, and even if it was, consider this: The USB port is not suposed to power motors because you can burn the USB port. USB is limited to 500mA (or there abouts) and any power device like a motor can potentially require more than that.
Another thing is that servos should be driven with constant voltage, and the speed is controlled by timing impulses on the control wire.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation
You should use a driver (hardware) to power the motor with an external power source.
This is transistor's purpose, or try with a potentiometer