Is this possible to debug applications on this MCU? Does anyone have experience with this? As datasheet says it is possible to debug in SWD mode but with JLINK /Keil & LPCLINK/LPCEXPRESSO we had no success.
Schematic is a simple breakout board. I soldered SWD pins to MCU's pins. I connected :Pin5:SWCLK/Pin6:SWDIO/Pin3:Reset and GND to LPC812 & JLINK.
Can you show your schematics? SWD should be available.
Related
I'm setting up a Raspberry Pi 4b with a number of Adafruit chips, and thus have used their CircuitPython library to control SPI communication. They've conveniently set up a way to use any GPIO pins as chip selects, but as a result I had no idea that there are two hardware chip selects on the Raspi (CE0 and CE1 on GPIO8 and GPIO7 respectively). I have already wired these pins (GPIO7&8) with the intention of using them as GPIO outputs, but I've noticed I GPIO8/CE0 is connected to the SPI clock.
Adafruit actually mentions that the NO_CS flag doesn't work in their documentation, and I can't seem to find anything useful online.
How can I disable the hardware CS pins? I know the SPI_NO_CS flag in SPI_MODE is already a bug in the spi-bcm library, and I found this patch, but I'm not sure if it would work (I think CircuitPython utilizes a hardware CS?), let alone how to apply it.
sorry if my query sounds odd. I am trying to determine whether my micro:bit will be affected badly if I did the following:
I have the GND wire of it's battery pack and the GND wire of the 9v battery running through the POWER GND pin of the driver. Currently, the 5V pin of the driver is being used, not the 12V power. I have coded a 2 wheeled( dc gear motor) buggy and want to 'upgrade' it to a 4 wheeled 'monster' buggy.
If I were to use the 12V pin ( and provide the 12V for the power supply, would the GND affect the micro:bit badly at all?
Thanks for your help, I'm new to this and this is my first question too. Any help about electronics is appreciated!
AIM: use the processor and bluetooth purely on the cc2541 to read from the free pins on the board but outputting in HID format so it could be used as a keyboard.
I understand that there are a few offical TI hardware components that usually are used to program it (I cannot afford the development kit). Would someone please help me either using arduino and a FTDI board program the cc2541 to do this?
While I have no idea how to use the CC2541, if you're limited by a budget you could get a HC-05 for 4 dollars-ish, and if you so happen to have a (old) PC with a parallel port you can reflash it using RN-42 firmware (need to solder 6 wires and plug em into that port with some resistors), which will allow it do become HID devices like joysticks,keyboards and mice.
Just in case someone stumble on this post later on, the following could help a lot I guess ;)
flashing an HC-05 with another firmware using an FTDI adapter
Enjoy ;)
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I have a goodix chip for the touchscreen on my tablet PC and even though I compiled the latest kernel module for it, things are not working.
I am using exactly this kernel version with the patched driver:
https://github.com/NimbleX/kernel
For starters, the picture of the said chip is the following:
The DSDT tables contain information regarding the touchscreen.
From what I understand the touchscreen is connected via an I2C serial interface but lshw shows that *-serial is UNCLAIMED.
Nevertheless I can see that the i2c_i801 module for the SMBus controller is loaded.
With the help of Aleksei I was able to determine that the toucscreen is connected to i2c-1 buss and that the controller must use 0x14 or 0x5d address.
Unfortunatelly, i2cdetect doesn't find anything, as it can be seen here.
I created a lengthy gist with the output of the following:
dmesg
DSDT.dsl
lshw
lspci
lsusb
/proc/bus/input/devices
xinput
I know that some of these are redundant and that others are useless but nevertheless it's better to have where to search than to miss something out.
I measured with a multimeter and the chip is powered both when running Windows and Linux so this rules out that I need to somehow tell Linux to power this thing out.
So, what do do next in order to debug this thing?
Hi can you check where pin 5,6 are connected specifically 6 which is reset ic so if that may be reseting the ic. just a posiblity.
My problem is there was a spark when I plug in the voltage source of my 220 V bulb.I have my arduino uno r3,hc-05 Bluetooth Module,Relay Module and 220V bulb.
I cut the wire of my 220V Bulb.
One wire that is near to the bulb was connected to (COM)common connection of our relay.
The other cut was connected to ground.
The Relay Module's VCC was connected to Arduino's 5V.
The Relay's input pin was connected arduino's pin 13 as well as the Normally open(NO) pin of reay.The Relay's ground ws also connected to Arduino's ground.
My Bluetooth module tx was connected to aruino's rx ans Bluetooth module's rx was connected to tx.
I also connected Bluetooth Module,5v to the Arduino's 5v.
and A ground from Bluetooth module to Arduino's Ground.
I made my own version of schematic diagram and this is how it works.It is not that nice but I hoope you will understand.
The small squares serve's as the BreadBoard
https://twitter.com/n_galia/status/419876079403147264/photo/1
Here is a simple relay driver you can use with the Arduino. The component values are not super important, R4 could be larger, R3 can be larger, you can use just about any 5V relay and any NPN transistor. As show it should work with most low/medium sized relay. When active you can check the voltage between Q1's collector and ground. It should be less then a volt. About 4mA is provided by the Ardunio, far below it's output capacity.
PLEASE BE CAREFUL!! you are working with high current and high voltage power. Blowing up an Ardunio is minor compared to the damage you can do to yourself.
The revised schematic might not work either. If your relay is a basic relay a driver will be required. The Ardunio can only sink about 20mA and it's likely your relay will need more to function correctly. The relay coil might look like a short to the Arduino.
If you have a relay with a built in logic level driver or a solid state relay, or even a TRIAC part (not a relay) you might be OK.
In situations like this its advised to use an optical coupler between the Arduino and the relay.
The optical coupler has a transistor that will dive the relay in its output, the transistor is actually a light sensitive transistor (photo-transistor) which is turned on via an LED built into the package. The Arduino would drive this LED (though a limiting resistor) which would activate the transistor to drive the Relay. This way the low voltage electronics are totally protected and isolated from the high voltage stuff.
Ouch!
The Arduino is not compatible of dealing with your 220Vac lines from power and to the light.
Your Arduino may not function correctly anymore.
I have attached a revision to your wiring.